When the new Cleaver restaurant (36 George Street, OX1 2BJ) opened up last month just before we went on holiday, I made a mental note to visit soon after we got back. And visit we did, for lunch today.
Cleaver’s menu is probably the most pared-down, simple menu I’ve seen in a while: chicken, burgers, ribs. That’s it! (OK, there are a few salads and you have a choice of various sides, but basically it’s those three items, in various sizes). Nothing fancy, just straightforward meat.
Of course, I got greedy and ordered the combo of half-rack of ribs plus quarter chicken (£10.95), along with a side of onion rings (£2.95) and some roasted vegetables (£2.95), reasoning that the Baberoo would be eating some of my lunch. She looked askance at the vegetables – more fool her, because they were delicious; full of caramelized flavour while retaining their shape rather than falling apart. I didn’t offer her any onion rings because, as you know if you read this blog regularly, I am an onion ring aficionado and will not share them under any circumstances. They were the big fat kind, surprisingly non-greasy (although I like greasy), and quite tasty, although not especially memorable. The chicken was fine. The ribs were very good indeed, although not the best I’ve ever had. The sauce was piquant but not too spicy, and the meat was tender and came easily off the bone. The Baberoo ate them so fast that I couldn’t keep up with her. She ate more than I did! If there had been any extra ribs she would have kept on devouring them.
So: the ribs are recommended by both mommy and baby. Now, how did Cleaver fare against my five criteria for baby-friendliness? (Menu, space, ambiance, facilities, and feeding – more on these in my About section.)
Menu: Well, if you need to hold a baby in one arm while you eat with one hand, you’re pretty much out of luck here – you will need both hands to eat almost every main on the menu, with the exception of the chicken wings. You could try the salads and some of the sides, but the whole point of coming to Cleaver is to enjoy the meat. Wait until your baby is big enough (and in a good enough mood) to sit in a high chair and then you can order whatever you want.
Space: There’s a huge expanse of space at the entrance to Cleaver, and the tables closest to the door are also spaced pretty far apart. You could fit a few prams into the space if you wanted to come with an NCT group or a few friends with baby carriages. (In fact, two ladies with strollers were coming in together just as we left.) The tables further back are spaced closer together. There’s also a downstairs seating area and a bar on a mezzanine level five steps up. A huge leather couch, leather armchair, and low table form a sort of waiting area near the front of the restaurant, which I immediately co-opted as a play area for the Baberoo while we were waiting for our meal to arrive.
Ambiance: Everything is wood or leather with plenty of salvaged-looking materials, and the space has a natural, warm and inviting aura, albeit with a whiff of chain-restaurant (it’s the fourth of the Cleaver restaurants, owned by the Prezzo empire). The staff couldn’t have been friendlier. Three of them snapped to attention the minute we walked in the door, and they were all absolutely charming. Our server asked the Baberoo’s name and then addressed her by name every time she came to our table. She was just fabulous. All the staff members were helpful and were obviously also having a good time working together.
Facilities: The disabled/baby-change toilet is up five stairs on the mezzanine level. I’m not sure how a wheelchair user would get up those stairs, but I left our baby carriage at the table and carried the Baberoo there. The pull-down table was brand-spanking-new and the bathroom was clean, although the lighting made it look a little dingy. The door lock was broken (I pointed it out to our server and she reported it to the manager). The space was on the small side, so it was just as well that I hadn’t brought the stroller in.
Feeding: There’s a children’s menu with pretty much the same meats as the regular menu, but at a cheaper price (£5.95 for three courses including main with fries or salad, dessert, and drink). If you’re breastfeeding, the leather couch or armchair at the front look eminently comfortable (although they are quite close to large windows so there’s not much privacy). There is also some bench seating as well as regular chairs; take your pick for what’s most comfortable for you.
For baby-friendliness, Cleaver gets a 7.75 out of 10. The staff were really great on our visit, and we’ll be back when the Baberoo gets her next craving for ribs.