A little while ago the Baberoo and I were on a shopping trip in Summertown. It was a cold, wet, horrible winter day and we needed a comforting hot meal, so we popped into Portabello (7 South Parade, OX2 7LJ), which has recently refurbished both its interior and its menus.
I took advantage of the £9.95 two-course lunch special. As my starter I chose the cream of cauliflower soup with toasted walnuts. I’d never have thought of pairing cauliflower with walnuts, but they are a wonderful taste combination, and the soup had a perfect velvetiness that magically soothed away the irritations of the drab and drizzly day. The Baberoo ate the bread that came with it, which was perfectly fine but not of the artisan quality that I might have expected to go with the soup.
My main was the osso buco with fried polenta. The osso buco was very nicely done and mostly falling off the bone – the Baberoo ate quite a lot of it. The fried polenta was too salty and didn’t add anything to the dish; it would have been better with a creamy, soft polenta that stayed in the background to let the osso buco shine through.
Midway through the meal the Baberoo decided to have one of her most ear-deafening tantrums yet, for no apparent reason. There weren’t too many diners in the restaurant yet, but this meltdown was the kind that would soon irritate anyone within earshot. I had to gobble the rest of my lunch and get us both bundled up and out of the restaurant, quick. Back in the rain again, I regretted not being able to linger over my lunch in the calm and quiet atmosphere of Portabello’s dining room.
So, how did Portabello measure up to my five criteria for baby-friendliness? They are menu, space, ambiance, facilities, and feeding (more about them on my About page).
Menu: If you need to hold your baby with one arm while eating one-handed, the regular lunch menu has several items that will allow you to do so. The regular lunch menu is somewhat more expensive than the lunch special, with starters running from £6 to £9 and mains running from £12 to £16. If you’re going for the special £9.95 lunch menu, note that it changes often so your ease of eating one-handed will depend on what is available that day.
Space: The entrance to Portabello is a vast space, but the amount of room around the tables varies and tends to be somewhat small, especially around the bench-seating area. We used a table for four and squeezed the baby carriage into one of the seat spaces. It’s doable in some areas of the restaurant, and the way the space is laid out means that you don’t have to travel very far to get to any table so you won’t need to weave your way through the restaurant with your stroller. However, it’s not so good for groups because you wouldn’t be able to get more than one stroller at a table.
Ambiance: Calm and quiet, with a mixture of sophisticated and homely decor. The staff were very friendly and helpful with the baby carriage and high chair, as well as with directions to the baby-changing facilities. The Baberoo (before her tantrum) enjoyed turning around in her high chair to catch the eye of the bartender and practice her waving, and he was a very good sport and gave her a lot of attention.
Facilities: The baby-changing facilities are in a smallish space, although we managed to squeeze our huge pushchair into the room anyway. The room is pretty and clean and smells amazing for a baby-changing room! The changing table is a good size. Because of the layout of the hallway, it may be hard to manoeuvre your pushchair into the room, but we had some help from our server, who was very kind and held the door open for us.
Feeding: The Baberoo ate part of what I brought from home for her and part of my lunch. She would have also enjoyed most of the kids’ menu, which offers a main plus a dessert for £7.50 (Sunday roast is a £1.50 supplement). I didn’t breastfeed while we were there and the chairs are on the small side, but the benches looked quite comfortable (though there isn’t much space around them).
For baby-friendliness Portabello scores a 7.0 out of 10. It might be a tight squeeze if there are lots of diners, but at less busy times it’s a lovely place to relax and linger over your meal – if your baby lets you.